Cat-Poo-Chino Time!

     The moment has come, time to taste the infamous Lewak coffee! One of these cups will cost you about 60,000 rupiah ($5)...hope its worth all the hype. After visiting an ashram his morning to do a sunrise meditation and yoga class, I went on the hunt for Lewak coffee. I eventually found a place down the road from where I am staying that will sell me just one cup. I stopped at one other place but they would only sell me a whole pot which would cost me about $20! No thanks, one cup is expensive enough. 

     The waitress just brought my cup of Lewak coffee and it is much smaller than I expected, although the presentation is just adorable. A expresso cup with a stick of cinnamon, a tiny chocolate chip cookie, and a little bit of coconut cream on the side. Pinkies up ladies and gentleblokes! And the verdict is...it tastes like a nice dark roast, with a hint of coconut (you can can cream instead). Well honestly its an expensive cup of coffee that tastes like, coffee. I am glad I tried it but I do not see myself seeking it out again. Now back to my coffee fast. I couldn't pass up the chance to have primer "crap coffee" from Bali though! Now I feel fulfilled, I can leave Bali in peace. :) 

The Magic of Ubud

     Sitting here at Clear Cafe nourishing my mind with a little reading, I also listen to the conversations around me. The energy of Ubud is like no place I have ever experienced before. The people that are drawn to come here are unique in themselves, enhancing the energy of this magical place. I am sad to think that I have to leave in two days, and a little part of me wishes that I could stay here forever. Everyday I meet new and amazing people. We share our experiences, and tell our stories. Last night at the Bali Buddha I met Funae from Belgium, who has been traveling solo for 7 months now. She spent two months in Sumatra where she fell in love with the country, and found a new love. Tonight I met a couple from Montreal and we chatted about the wonderful massages Ubud has to offer. Earlier today I met a table tennis professional player from Hollywood. As I'm sitting here enjoying my raw vegan mudslide pie I hear conversations in many languages, many which I cannot recognize. People from all walks of life come to enjoy this wonderful town, and each bring a little something special to the mix.

     If you stay in Ubud you have to eat at Clear Cafe and the Bali Buddha. Maybe attend a yoga class at Radiantly Alive or The Yoga Barn. Make sure to rent a motor bike and just take the day to get yourself lost around the many little side streets in Ubud. Today I did just that and it was fantastic! I absolutely love riding around and exploring, no more riding on the back of someone else's bike. :) At first I was terrified to face the Ubud traffic, and didn't think I would be able to do it. But as soon as I got on that bike and made the first turn all my fear was lifted with the rushing wind. I felt such a sense of freedom and accomplishment! I had done it! 

     Tomorrow I will rise with the sun and head out to Anand Asrham for a morning meditation and kundalini yoga class. Then maybe venture out on the bike through the rice fields. Who knows what the day could bring...I just know that I am so grateful to be in this place at this time in my life. I could not wish for anything more, especially because with every breath I take in Bali I feel more nourished in every aspect: body, mind, and soul.

New Realizations

     Over the last two days I have spent my time walking around the central Ubud area. I wake up in the mornings, do my morning yoga and meditation practice, then gather my things and just follow my feet. As I was walking today I realized that I am genuinely happy all the time, I have to remember not to smile to much because that draws unwanted attention. Granted smiling is always wonderful, but it gets a little annoying after a few days that every time you smile you get asked if you want a massage, taxi ride, tour guide, motor bike rental, a ticket to tonights dance performance, it just goes on and on. While I was walking I tried to think what it was that is making this trip so different from all the rest I have taken. It was not because I am traveling alone, I am enjoying it, but to be honest I have not been alone that much on this trip so far. Could it simply be the energy of Bali? Maybe, but then it dawned on me...I have absolutely no expectations.

     Once this crossed my mind I knew it had to be the answer. Every single trip I have taken thus far I have always hyped up. I have gotten myself so excited for it that when I actually got there the bar was so high it could not be anything else than a let down. Not to say that every trip I have had up to this point was a let down, far from it. But something has really shifted this time around. I came here with no plans, no ideas about what may happen, and honestly pretty scared because I was completely on my own. Because I left everything open, with no expectations, every moment has been magical (I'm not exaggerating). Even though I walk circles around town, every time I walk the circle it gets better. I have never once felt bored, or felt that I should be doing something at any given time. This might party be due to the fact that I am traveling and I do not have anything really to worry about, but I hope that you can take even just a little part of this into your life. I realized that when I'm at home I worry constantly, and I work so hard to fit as much into my day as possible. When I had a day where I did not get a lot done I felt horribly unsuccessful, and I guilted myself into feeling incomplete. Then I would make big plans and to do lists for the next day so I would feel "accomplished", only to have the pattern repeat itself again. If only I could have had my list of things to get done, but set no expectations for myself I would have felt fulfilled everyday. Now as I am traveling life is simple; but, it is so wonderful that every step I take feels like an accomplishment, and with every new blink I notice something new and exciting.  Every moment I have had, and every person I have met has made me feel like I am the luckiest girl in the world just because I happened to be there at that time, or with that new friend/s. I now know that this is simply because I have no expectations for anything, I just leave it in the hands of fate.

Travel Shopping

     Today I decided to venture out of the main hub of things and followed the main road west out of town. It was a nice walk...but, up a giant hill in the heat of the day. I did stop to talk to a taylor about the beautiful embroidered women's shirts they make here in Bali, and it turns out I kinda got ripped off with the one I bought in the center of town. You would think that after all my travels I would know to wait until you explore a bit to buy all your touristy goods, and definitely do not buy them in the center of tourist town if you can help it. Guess I am a bit rusty even with my own philosophies. Anyway if you ever plan to come to Bali you will see all these beautiful tailored shirts that women wear to temple, and to religious festivals, and no doubt you will want one too. I found out today that if you walk 30 minutes out of town on the main road, you will find a few tailors that will make you a much more beautiful formal Balinese shirt for half the price it is in town. The picture below is from a store in town that ONLY SELLS the fabric (doesn't do the custom tailoring) for 700,000 rupiah. The woman I met today a little out of town sells the fabric for 300,000, and does all the tailoring for 100,000 (to put it in perspective (400,000 rupiah = $33). Just remember this basic concept for all future travels. Also lastly if you are planning to travel to Bali know that everything, literally EVERYTHING can be bargained about. Don't ever settle for the price someone gives you, most likely you are being overcharged.

Asia Tummy

     Well I did not think I would get sick until I reached India, but my time has come and I have been stuck in bed in agony these last 3 days. So I have decided to catch up on my blog writing...well to start really. I remember being sick in Brasil, when we stayed in this not so ideal hostel, but that has nothing on my new experience of Asia sick. I have been doing surprising well with food, having very few problems, and always asking how the food is made. I am horribly intolerant to any and all soy/dairy/peanut products, and choose not the eat wheat (because most of the time it is made with milk or a soy based oil). Bali has been wonderful for me because as long as I am clear that I do not want sauce on my food, everything here can be soy free and they only cook with coconut oil. I did wonderful for about a week, then on week two Asia tummy knocked me cold out...
     I had made some friends on the island Nusa Lembongan (a very small island just off the very bottom of the island towards the east), and they invited me to stay with them in Sanur (in the south part of the Bali Island) for two nights. When we had got back to Sanur form Nusa Lembongan I had a wonderful yoga class on Sanur beach, then went to dinner with my friends. I think this was the KILLER DINNER. The place was busy so I did not have second thoughts. I was able to communicate that I couldn't have Ketcup Mans (some kinda soy sauce/ketcup that the Indonesians love) or soy sauce, and the lady serving pointed to all the different foods I could have. This was like a cafeteria with all the food laid out in front of you (pre-made), and you just choose what you want to eat and it is served to you. THIS SHOULD HAVE BEEN MY FIRST RED FLAG. I even remember now another friend I met my 2nd day out here, Renae from Melbourne, telling me to be very wary of buffets because you have no idea how long the food has been sitting out there. But I seemed to have forgotten that because I was so comfortable with my friends, going out for dinner.
     Anyway, I had some rice, fried chicken, fried curried potato, egg (I think this might have been the culprit, but I'll never know for sure), and cooked vegetables. everything tasted good, and I felt fine afterwards. It was not until about 5am the next morning that the misery began. I will not go into the gory details, but I wanted to share this story in case you might be traveling anytime soon, or are traveling yourself. Word to the wise...avoid buffets if you can, and especially avoid the eggs. Although I must add that my cycling tour was all buffet, but it looked like the food was just made. After I got sick people started telling me all their "sick stories" and some of them revolved around eggs at a buffet. This is not meant to hinder you off eggs anytime you travel, I have been having wonderful egg breakfasts every morning since I have been here and have been feeling good as gold. The Indonesians are big on fried eggs with their meals. :)
     All in all, I am still alive, and kicking...first bought of Asia tummy, check. I gotta say though, traveling alone and having to deal with being super sick sucks but it has made me confident that I am now capable to handle any more ailments that come. I used to get so upset over a cold or flu, especially when my significant other or friends did not come to help take care of me (no that they should of, I was only feeling sorry for myself). But after experiencing this, and doing it alone, there will be no more weeping about having to care for myself with a measly cold.  As awful as being sick has been, it has taught me that I am stronger, and instilled a greater sense of confidence in my capacity to challenge obstacles in my path.

First Week in Bali

     My first week on my adventures has been wonderful. I arrived in Bali on Jan 13th, and went straight to Ubud. This is a town in the center most part of the island, which is also the hub for cultural arts and dance. Ubud is amazing, it reminds me a lot of Santa Cruz, and actually has the same vibe. I found myself right back at home! :) There are a bunch of raw food and vegan restaurants, yoga studios, clothing stores that remind me of synergy, and a very eco conscious community. Also absolutely EVERYTHING is green with plant life. I am so in love with this place!
     My first day in Ubud I stayed at the Alang Alang house a little ways out of town (I didn't realize that this would be a bit of an inconvenience, but the room was nice enough to make up for it). There was only one other guest at the guesthouse, an Aussie named Leigh from Melbourne. He invited me to come into town on the scooter he had rented for the day. I still had yet to learn how to ride a scooter, and I am so glad I did not learn in Ubud...even for a small town the traffic is a little crazy at times, and not the best place to learn to ride a motorbike.
     Leigh showed me around central Ubud a bit before we went to grab a bite to eat. Honestly I was overwhelmed! I couldn't tell my north from east, and there were so many streets and alleyways I had no idea where I was at any point in time. By the 2nd day in Ubud things were beginning to get a bit more familiar, and I could generally find my way back to the good restaurants and the guesthouse. The first day though Leigh introduced me to Clear Cafe. HANDS DOWN one of the best restaurants I have ever been to. Salads, soups, curries, cashew "mylk" shakes, vegan smoothies, vegan brownies with coconut ice cream for dessert....if this restaurant opened up in Santa Cruz it would be the hottest joint in town.
     After my first (and very confusing day in Ubud) I came back to the guesthouse to just rest. My next few days were quite eventful though, and I barely had time to rest, so I was glad I took the first two days to acclimate. On my third day I took a bike tour through rural Bali. To all travelers...the best way to meet people is by booking a tour, or attending a class while you are traveling (cooking, yoga, dance, etc.). Although you meet a lot of people through your guesthouse or hostel, getting your self on a tour when you first arrive at a new spot is a great way to get your feet on the ground, and make some new friends to venture out with over the few days your are posted up there. I made two girlfriends from this cycling tour and we all went on a grand driving tour the next day! Also saved me the cost of paying for the full driving tour myself, double bonus!!
     The bike tour started out with a stop at Tegallalang rice fields, which where very beautiful. This was the first time I saw a large span of rice fields in Bali (I'd seen a few on my walk the previous day when taking a side route from the main road into town). Bali's landscape is so amazing, and filled with so much water! After the rice terrace we headed straight up to a coffee plantation near Mt. Batur. Here we learned all about Lewak coffee. The Lewak is a little weasel like animal that eats only the best of the best ripened red coffee cherries, and as these cherries go through this little guys digestive tract it undergoes fermentation and chemical treatments before it exits. Then the magic happens. Humans collect this crap, which apparently looks like a chocolate bar with peanuts, wash off the coffee beans that remain, roast them, and serve to unsuspecting tourists. Only kidding, the tourists know what they are getting...and they pay good money for it. I have yet to try it, but a good cup goes for about $6! A little pouch of ground Lewak coffee that will give you about 1 pot in a coffee maker will set you back $30. Unfortunately I am sticking strong by my coffee fast, so I am not sure I will be able to tell you how this actually tastes. I can tell you that the roasted beans smell amazing though, but better than the two other types of beans they had out you could sniff (those were both different types of arabic coffee). Maybe I will have to try some before I leave, just to say I did. Cause how often do we get to say we had the honor of having a real "cat-poo-chino"?
     After the coffee plantation we headed up to a restaurant that overlooked Mt. Batur and Danau (lake) Batur. It was absolutely breath taking. This was the first time I have ever seen an active volcano. Half of the volcano was covered in black lava stone from an eruption in 1973. The people of Bali now pay to collect this lava stone and use it for building homes, and temples. The land has never recovered. After an amazing breakfast of fried rice, banana chocolate pancakes, fresh fruit, black rice porridge, and tea we headed off to get our bikes. We biked through the country side stopping to see a traditional balinese family home, to play with a huge but harmless banana spider, and to help harvest some rice in the rice fields.
     Harvesting rice was one of my favorite parts of this whole day. We parked our bikes on the side of the road and went in to join the women harvesting. First thing I learned is that here in Bali harvesting is a woman's job, and planting is a man's job. There are two types of rice that are grown in Bali: a longer red rice, and a short grain white rice. I know that the white rice has 3 cycles a year, not quite sure about the red rice although I think it is fewer (maybe 2?). I got to try out cutting the rice stalks with a small scythe, and then carrying them over to a slanted board. Here bunches of rice are whacked against this board and all the rice grains fall onto a tarp where they can be collected, and the grass is thrown into another pile. I can not imagine doing this work all day in that hot sun! These are some strong women, who put up with a lot to do this work. I was not, but these women are also barefoot in the rice patties which are filled with water where little black bugs wiggle their way under your toenails and in between your toes. Think about that next time you pickup rice from the grocery store! We are so distanced from where our resources come from in the U.S sometimes, it amazes me how little I even know about how my food gets on the table. These women are also not paid with money, they are paid in rice. For very 4 bags of rice they harvest they get to take 1 home. These women will carry a 35 kg bag of rice n their heads all the way home after a long day of work in the fields. All the rice harvested in Bali is used by the Balinese, and none is exported. They have just enough to sustain the need in Bali. Java on the other hand does grown their own rice as well, but still has to import rice from Thailand because the need is greater than their resources.
     Then to finish off the tour we had a late lunch at another nice restaurant over looking more emerald green rice patties. I had smoked duck, chicken, rice noodle stir fry, veggies, and rice. Honestly the meals on this tour was one of the best parts as well. A time to chat, with great food, and make many new friends. If anyone reading this wants to come to Bali or is planning to, the company I booked the tour with was called "Bali Eco Cycling". It was a little more on the expensive side, costing me a whopping $35, but I think that these guys are definitely worth every penny. You can find many other tours doing basically the same thing for as low as $25 for the day. The guides of Bali Eco Cycling are great though, are wonderfully accommodating to any food allergies (I was able to get both meals dairy/soy/gluten free) or medical conditions, and the tour guides are hilarious. I loved it and would recommend it to anyone!